Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
